We had to motor-sail most of the way to Laxe before the wind picked up to F5 on the nose just as we entered the Ria de Corme y Laxe. We were joined for about half an hour by a large group of dolphins playing off the bows and leaping out of the water. We turned the engine off and drifted along at about 2 kts and they slowed down with us. We never tire of watching these beautiful creatures that seem to delight in watching you watching them. We dropped the hook in the bay at Laxe along with about six or seven other boats. At the moment the weather is grey, misty and not particularly warm and it seems set to continue like this for the next week. I’ve managed to stay out of long trousers so far, but I’m not sure for how much longer! The blister on my ankle continues to grow, so we have curtailed any long walks for the time being and are trying to get jobs done around the boat. I have finally finished the mosquito netting for the main hatch and use it every evening in the hope we will stop being bitten. So far, touch wood, it seems to be working.
Dolphins join us as we approach Laxe
From Laxe we headed across the Ria to Corme and spent one night anchored in the bay before setting off for Camariñas. Once we entered the Ria de Camariñas the wind picked up and we had a great sail in flat water. We anchored at the far end of the bay away from the town of Camariñas and spent a lovely afternoon lazing around in the sun. Unfortunately, the next morning, it was back to wind and cloud again so we motored into the marina, intending to stay just for one night to celebrate my birthday. However, while I was walking back to the boat in the afternoon my blister finally burst and it’s now extremely painful to walk, so I think it may be quite a few days before we can continue on our way.
Later in the evening a British boat was towed into the marina with engine problems. Mike went round to see if there was anything he could do to help the following morning but apparently the salvage company who towed him in came back and fixed his engine. He is a very colourful character called Captain Bob who has sailed round the world in his English built steel hulled yacht. Apparently he had been at sea for seventeen days, two of which he did not come out of the cabin because the weather was so bad, and had drifted into the shipping lanes. He contacted the coastguard when he was 40 miles out and requested a tow. I managed to hobble up to the yacht club that evening and Captain Bob joined us while we were having our meal and he had many a good story to tell!
I didn’t venture off the boat for the next three days and Mike was detailed to do all the shopping, not his specialist subject, but he has been an excellent nurse (maybe he picked up some tips from his sister), changing my dressing twice a day and making sure I stay off my feet! The enforced rest has been beneficial as I believe that finally my ankle is beginning to improve and hopefully we’ll be able to leave here in a couple of days.
Each afternoon the marina fills up with transiting yachts of all nationalities and some stay for a second night, but most leave the following morning. We have met quite a few people from UK who are heading down to the Canaries for the ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers) which leaves Gran Canaria for St Lucia in November. Rather them than me. We and Captain Bob are the only ones who have been here for a week, but we are finally going to set off tomorrow, but I think Captain Bob may be here a bit longer.
Finally we are on our way again. We left Camariñas just before lunch and motor-sailed to Cape Finisterre. The wind died entirely just as we rounded the cape and we motored up to the far end of the bay and dropped the hook off Playa de Sardineiro, which was a very attractive little fishing village. The following morning we headed off and after motoring for about an hour, had a great sail into the Ria de Muros. After anchoring for lunch, we carried on further into the Ria and anchored near Muros town. The wind picked up steadily during the remainder of the day and was gusting about 30kts during the night and into the next morning. It finally died down a bit later on in the afternoon, so we motored across the bay in the dinghy to do some shopping in Muros and also check out the prices and facilities for the marina which only opened in June. Mike had read that the prices were exorbitant as there was no power, water or Wi-fi. However we were very pleasantly surprised when we were told that the prices would drop by 30% the next day, as September is the start of the low season and also all the facilities have now been installed.